24 Comments

1. 

   @BEAUTYNEWS

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   Hey guys there is some weird glitch going on where the pinned comment by VS M isn't showing up. Until that gets sorted out here is the comment:
   VS M : Hi, I'm a cosmetic chemist. Going to put this here for everyone (inaccurately) repeating Stephanie Nicole's opinion on this palette, or for those who have a phd in eyeshadow from the university of youtube… (Edited 8/10 to answer some Q's–see bottom. Yes, this is long. Reading is good for you.)

   I'm just done with consumers lecturing each other on why this palette is working as intended. It's not. This was not marketed as a "pressed pigment" palette, and really, all eyeshadows can be called "pressed pigments" if a mfr wants. Stephanie Nicole is lovely, and she does work with pigments in nail polish, but some of you have twisted her (and apparently also WG's) opinion into an odd platform from which you, yourselves, are trying to speak with authority on this formula. As BEAUTY NEWS pointed out, Stephanie was sharing her personal opinion, which she made pretty damn clear in her video. She also did not say that there aren't problems with this palette or even that she necessarily thinks it's good. She told people not to buy it until they can test it out. She also has her biases and misconceptions, because she is a human.

   There's a lot of back-splanation going on amongst consumers, saying that ABH intended xyz as a reason for what a train wreck this palette is, but the reality is that no one knew anything about how different the formula is, or how gentle you have to be with the shadows, or how badly/differently they blend, or how they change color on the skin until AFTER the palette was released and people had problems. ABH did not release this as a "pressed pigment" or "pro" palette with disclaimers about how to use it. There have been palettes released by other brands that are actually called "pressed pigment" palettes–the Urban Decay Electric palette is one–and they do not behave like this. Seriously, I challenge anyone to find a large brand palette people like that was made this way on purpose that does not have some kind of disclaimer. Idk if any exist, period–disclaimer or not–because products as bad as Subculture rarely get released (and the fact that some people like it or got a better palette does not mean it's not a fucking disaster–trust me, everyone who works in a makeup lab is studying this train wreck rn).

   So this has nothing to do with the term "pressed pigment". Also, "pigment" isn't just one thing, and different types of pigments require different accompanying ingredients. Stephanie mentioned this in her video. If you're going to speak as a false-authority on pigments, you might want to learn what pigments actually are.

   The problem with the formula is two-fold: a lack of binding ingredients (which are not put in eyeshadows to dilute them or make them cheaper–they're put in eyeshadows so that pigments, which do not naturally hold together, cling to skin or blend well on their own will hold together, cling to skin and blend well), and the extremely soft pressing. Those two things make for excellent swatches and terrible eyeshadows.

   Stephanie Nicole said outright that part of the reason she doesn't personally have a problem with the palette is that it already suits the way she does her makeup, and that people should not need to learn a new eyeshadow application technique to use a palette. Lecturing people not to use this palette the way they use every other palette because blahblahpigmentblah is absurd. That is not the palette working as intended. It's ABH doing damage control, and people, for whatever reason, rushing to defend them.

   This probably sounds very rude, but many people are presenting misinterpreted, second-hand opinions as fact in every Subculture review, and since this is my actual job on which I'm an actual authority, and since I've actually been asked to read consumer comments *for work*, I'm fucking over reading so many comments from laypeople speaking as authorities on eyeshadow formulation. I find these people rude af. You're not an expert. You don't know what you're talking about, and I find it offensive that on every single video there are like 20 of you giving a bunch of made up reasons why people who don't like the palette are wrong. To say that ABH didn't add "a bunch of binders" to preserve pigmentation belies a deep lack of understanding of how eyeshadows work, and in particular the types of eyeshadows with this formula–talc and oxides, essentially–which desperately needs binders. You know that "oxidation" people keep talking about? Yeah, that's not oxidation. That's what happens when you apply talc and pigments to the skin without the right accompanying ingredients.

   Re: complaints about the swirl tests, they are demonstrating how loosely pressed the Subculture shadows are compared to MR and other palettes. It makes perfect fucking sense. (This comment is originally from the BEAUTY NEWS channel.) This channel destroys cosmetics every week, so if anyone was going to destroy the Subculture shadows with brushes, it should be them. And also, as BN pointed out many times, this palette IS NOT PURE PIGMENT.

   So yeah, sorrynotsorry, I'm just effing sick of this shit. I have to keep up with the "consumer conversation" for work, and I srsly want to rip my eyeballs out. Let me reiterate: repeating something from someone who sounds like they know what they're talking about does not make you an expert. Give ABH your feedback and let the actual cosmetic chemists work it out.

   FWIW, I wish ABH had done a stellar job with this palette, because I am sick to death of companies requesting the same 3 brown eyeshadow palettes.

   Edit–Responses to frequent questions/comments:

   Q: "Why did ABH change their formula when they already had one people like?" A: I think they were focused above all on getting the specific colors they wanted. To make these muted colors look very fashion and intentional–rather than, say, a regular green that looks greyish on the lid because the payoff is shit–they wanted the consumer to pick up as much pigment as possible with every pass. And they accomplished that, which is why the swatches look so good. But I don't think they tested it well enough, and during testing, I don't think they realized what sorts of accommodations they were making for the formula. As for Cube and Electric… No f'ing idea how those two were cleared.

   Q: "Is talc to blame for all of the problems?" A: No. Plenty of companies have excellently pigmented shadows with high talc content that don't act like Subculture. I believe ABH chose talc as the base for these mattes because they wanted them to be as matte as possible. They just didn't formulate it well. Talc is an allergen (after a lot of talc exposure, I personally have developed a sensitivity), but it's not just some cheap crap ABH used to cut corners. It's more about what's missing than what is there.

   Q: "Will you repost your comment everywhere?" and "Why didn't you post this on Stephanie or Wayne's channels?" A: Alas, that will not be my crusade. BEAUTY NEWS unexpectedly pinned my comment, and it just took on a life. Then Tati asked me to repost it on her review. I'd rather people give the BN video more exposure than plaster a rant everywhere, bc they're a smaller channel and I enjoy what they do, but if other channels request that I post it for them as well, that's cool. I'm not going to start some shit on someone's page over this if I disagree with their video. I don't like Wayne's video, but it's his space, and his opinion. I have nothing against SN, and don't want people twisting this into an attack on her.

   Q: "Will you make a video about Subculture (or anything)?" A: I'll stick to being a snarky know-it-all in the comments. 😉 There are some great youtubers out there, though. Watch them instead.

   Q: "People who swirl their brushes in the pans are being stupid. People who have trouble applying Subculture don't know how to do eyeshadow. My palette is fine, so everyone is exaggerating/an idiot." And so on. A: If you watch the BEAUTY NEWS video, you can see the variances between two Subculture palettes side by side*. Palettes that were bought at the same time. There are inconsistencies between how firmly pressed *each color is, not just each palette. And no, makeup collectors/pro makeup artists with dozens of palettes aren't too stupid to use Subculture. And if you don't understand that people are trying to demonstrate how loosely the shadow is pressed… Idk, keep being annoying I guess? Basically, if you like your palette, keep liking it. But maybe take this huge controversy as a sign that other people have some points.

   Q: "Omg why so many words??? TLDR!! You have too much free time!" etc… A: I write over 10k words/wk for work. This is nothing. You've just watched at least one 20+ min long video about eyeshadow and are complaining in the comments about reading. Check your life.

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2. 

   @celesteunderwood1094

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   It’s really too bad that the palette sucked so bad. It was a color story I really like…

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3. 

   @normagiunchi4157

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   LO QUE ES ESTAR AL PEDO O NO SABER QUE TEMA PONER EN UN VIDEO PARA CONSEGUIR VISTAS😂😂😅😅

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4. 

   @scarlettbetz9109

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   March of 2023 rewatch

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5. 

   @vintagegirl68

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   Too many f bombs! Gee

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6. 

   @Verbsdescribeus

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   Guys, be careful: Anastasia Soare, the creator of ABH, is a Putin admirer, who started the war in Ukraine, so this brand really needs to cancelled from the beauty world…

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7. 

   @MishkaMeshel

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   4 years later and I am watching this video thinking "am I the only person who doesn't swirl or tap my brush like crazy into eyeshadow?" LOL I am super lighthanded. I've never had issues with my palette other than sometimes certain colours becoming "muddy". This is actually one of my favourite palettes. I have many go to looks with it! Also, why is it so mesmerizing to watch makeup be destroyed? 🤣🤣 love it!

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8. 

   @briannaboles698

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   i have that palette and i just tap the brush in instead of swirling but idk i dont use it often

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9. 

   @melissahourihan2344

   February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

   It took me so long to realize the middle one is the eyeshadow I use like every day. It is pretty powdery but i don’t own many eyeshadows lol

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10. 

    @dangerbirb4981

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    Watching this is so super satisfying. Uuuuuuuungh. I just want to dump all that powder on my palms and smear it on my face…

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11. 

    @kendrastevenson5423

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    I'm so glad this one didn't get hit with the bad music!

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12. 

    @harraystyless1910

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    im not no expert but i dont think dipping the brush in 3 times and checking the ‘powdery-ness’ is very accurate they probably changed it for a reason and different coloura will be pressed differently also the softness of a brush cannot confirm

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13. 

    @soniasohi5013

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    They are pressed pigments. So when the non professionals were upset about it, I was like bruh, they are not regular shadows. Use it light handed. Anyhoo.

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14. 

    @crazykitten655

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    I’ve had similar problems with the powdery eyeshadows in anastasia pallets tbh. The Soft Glam pallet with their own brushes and soft natural brushes made me hit pan on 2 shadows after 2 or 3 uses and it’s super annoying bc the shades are pretty it’s just they’re so powdery that you’ll get little uses in comparison to other pallets. Like I get that ppl want softer shadows but with batch inconsistencies its kinda not worth the money at this point

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15. 

    @sanfran91

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    It's been almost three years since they released this palette and you know what? If they reformulated but kept the colors the same, I bet people would absolutely buy it. Even if you lose a little bit of the pigmentation. I would buy it, the colors are bomb. There still hasn't been a palette with a similar color story, I don't think.

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16. 

    @glitchysan9594

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    I agree the formula isn’t what it’s supposed to be, but this is the first pallets I have been able to use because of my allergies. So, I still love it

    P.S. love the video ❤️

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17. 

    @NaomiR51

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    All my real hair mac brushes are not soft at and scratch and sting my skin

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18. 

    @electraheart7745

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    No one:

    Kat and Hailey: Rowdy is FuCKeD uP

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19. 

    @Peaches_H_Nyce

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    Me studing for finals…

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20. 

    @jessicalouise7911

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    Same thing happens to the duo cromes in then win pallets

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21. 

    @InsomniOwl_o7

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    Can anyone tell me why the powdery shadows are an issue? Does it effect the application on the eye or is it just wasteful? Any answers are welcome. ❤️

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22. 

    @ClosetQuorum

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    Sugar, spice and everything nice..
    But they forgot the CHEMICAL X 🥵

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23. 

    @nicoleskorupsky1007

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    The color fudge kinda reminds me of coffee. And I’m a coffee and caffeine addict.

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24. 

    @TheShecorena

    February 7, 2024 at 11:32 pm

    Stop swearing please . Thank you !

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